The Charm of ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA: A World-Renowned Wine List Shining in Ginza

Gourmet readers may already have experienced it:ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA. The Paris restaurant known for being the first led by an Asian chef to earn three Michelin stars in 2020,Restaurant KEI.Its owner-chef, Kei Kobayashi, established a "gastronomic laboratory" here in Ginza:ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA.

While Chef Kei Kobayashi's world-renowned cuisine goes without saying, the establishment is actually attracting global attention for its wine list as well.

To explore this globally acclaimed wine list and their passion for Japanese wine, we spoke with chef sommelierKazuki Nakajima., and interviewed Chef Masahisa Sugimoto.

The restaurant won a Silver Award at Star Wine List of the Year Japan 2025. Star Wine List is a competition that evaluates restaurant wine lists. "For a sommelier, this award is a great honor. Since winning, we've seen an increase in guests from abroad, especially from North, South, and Central America. They come to visit us using Star Wine List like a guidebook," Mr. Nakajima says with delight.

Not only guests from overseas, but also many wine industry professionals and enthusiasts in Japan who have seen Star Wine List reportedly visit as well.
And with good reason—the carefully selected bottles form a lineup where "just reading it feels like a journey." What kind of selection makes up this globally acclaimed wine list?

A thick wine list placed solidly on the table, looking almost like a dictionary or an encyclopedia.
There are 700 to 800 items centered on French wine. Including domestic wines, the total reaches a staggering over 900 items.

The restaurant does not offer a so-called "pairing course" paired with multi-course meals.
Instead, Mr. Nakajima focuses on as many as 120 types of half-bottles, “For those who want to enjoy a little of everything, half-bottles are the ultimate choice. I love them personally and have been collecting them for a long time,” they say, “so guests can freely enjoy a variety of wines paired with their food.”

Precisely because there are no set pairings, guests can discover the relationship between wine and food for themselves—a truly luxurious freedom.

Next, I was shown a wine list dedicated exclusively to Japanese wine. Centered mainly on international varieties, 70 selections are featured here.

“I want guests from around the world to get to know Japanese wine—that is the passion behind this list,” they explained, noting that among guests from abroad, Koshu and Chardonnay are popular choices for whites, while Pinot Noir is popular for reds.

In particular, Mr. Nakajima actively recommends Koshu to let guests enjoy "an experience that changes their world when they drink it."

What is particularly interesting is Mr. Nakajima's theory on pairing. "When guests request a pairing, I always construct it starting from the main course.For example, with venison or pigeon, pairing a wine with aromas of white pepper or spice opens up a whole new world at once. After that, I construct the overall aroma structure for the appetizer wines, considering not only the dish itself but also the sequence and balance of the other wines."

Right now is the season for delicious game meat. The wine mentioned in this context was "Mariko Syrah" from Château Mercian Mariko Winery. "The white pepper accents of Mariko Syrah cleanse the fat of the venison while enhancing the lingering aromatic finish. It is highly recommended for those choosing the roasted Yezo sika deer as their main course." He also notes, "I have been visiting Mariko Winery for over 10 years, and the quality of the grapes now is truly wonderful.," he says. Another great advantage of Japanese wine is that sommeliers can visit the vineyards themselves to check the condition of the grapes.

The dishes created by Chef Sugimoto are also exquisite. The "C" in the restaurant's name stands for "cuisine" (cooking/kitchen) and "creation" (creativity), with a large open kitchen—the heart where culinary creations are born—positioned prominently at the center of the space.

Horsehair Crab Monakais a signature specialty of ESPRIT C. KEI GINZA. Featuring horsehair crab from Funka Bay and crab tomalley butter, topped with gribiche sauce, and FrenchKaviari'sKristal Caviar KEI Selection is luxuriously presented on this beautiful dish.
Since the restaurant is run by Toraya, the monaka wafer shell specially crafted by the samemanufactureras the familiar Toraya treats offers a crisp texture and savory aroma, overlaid with the cool, fresh scent of the sea.

The Japanese wine paired by Mr. Nakajima is Grace Wine "Hishiyama Vineyard Koshu".
He explains that the crisp citrus aroma from un-oaked, stainless-steel fermentation suppresses any fishiness in the caviar and highlights its umami.

Furthermore, the roasted Ezo venison, with its complex layers of Japanese pepper and mixed peppercorn aromas, resonates with the recommended Mariko Syrah 2022, leaving an enduringly delicious finish on the palate.

Chef Sugimoto says,"First and foremost, it comes down to the ingredients. To deliver wonderful domestic ingredients in their best possible state, we are meticulous about serving cold dishes cold and hot dishes hot as quickly as possible. Being able to observe our guests from the kitchen is also a key point."

Drawn by the Star Wine List, many guests from around the world visitESPRIT C. KEI GINZA. Stepping inside, you can savor exquisite dishes highlighting seasonal Japanese ingredients paired with Japanese wines served at a globally acclaimed level of quality.

"I want guests from around the world to learn more about Japanese wine. We hope to share its appeal with the world right here from Ginza.." (Mr. Nakajima) We have high expectations for the future of Japanese cuisine and Japanese wine shaped by the duo of Chef Sugimoto and Sommelier Nakajima.