Understanding the Terroir of "Ono", Nagano Prefecture: KIRINOKA Maker's Seminar (Chardonnay Edition)

Minoru Numata pours his passion into wine with the motto "A lifelong career in the wine industry, aiming to craft the ultimate Pinot Noir." In Ono, Tatsuno Town, Nagano Prefecture, in 2024 he established the winery KIRINOKA VINEYARDS & WINERY. Released this year, Maison de Kirinoka Chardonnay Hakuo 2024 may already be known to enthusiasts who have heard of its fine reputation.

This time, a maker's seminar was held focusing on that Chardonnay to experience the connection between the terroir of "Ono" and the wine.

After working for 10 years at a hotel in Tokyo, he transitioned to an import company specializing in Australian wine. Around this time, he began traveling across Japan in search of ideal sites for cultivating Pinot Noir. In 2008, following training at a prestigious Pinot Noir winery in Oregon, USA, he enrolled at Lincoln University in New Zealand, where he studied viticulture and enology, taking his first steps as a viticulturist and winemaker. Upon returning to Japan, he worked as a wine school instructor and a wine consultant, assisting with the establishment of wineries. Starting in 2020, he began clearing land by hand using just a shovel in Ono, Tatsuno Town, Nagano Prefecture, and planted Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

KIRINOKA VINEYARDS & WINERY: Mr. Minoru Numata

Overview of the Location

As is well known, Nagano Prefecture consists of five areas: Chikuma River Wine Valley, Japan Alps Wine Valley, Kikyogahara Wine Valley, West Foothills of Yatsugatake Wine Valley, and Tenryu River Wine Valley.

Among them, the Ono Basin is located roughly halfway between the Kikyogahara Wine Valley and the Tenryu River Wine Valley, a 15- to 20-minute drive up from Shiojiri Station (altitude approx. 700 m). Ono Station sits at an altitude of about 810 m, while Kirinoka's vineyards are primarily situated around an elevation of 850 m.

This area forms a major watershed of the Japanese archipelago, where the drainage basin splits between the Sea of Japan side (Shiojiri) and the Pacific Ocean side (Ono Basin) across the Utou Pass.

Incidentally, the place name "Shiojiri" translates to the "end of the Salt Road." It is said to mean the "end (shiri)" point for salt brought from the Sea of Japan via Itoigawa. Conversely, a route from the Pacific side also existed.
These facts highlight how this region sits right in the dead center of the Japanese archipelago.Being far from the sea, it is characterized by large diurnal temperature variations.

About the Soil of the Ono Basin

Across the Chuo Main Line, the eastern side features volcanic soil (an area with many rice paddies), while the western side consists of Jurassic sedimentary geology dating back roughly 150 million years (an area with many dry crop fields).

In his lectures, Mr. Numata often mentions that "wines from alkaline soils lean acidic, while wines from acidic soils lean alkaline." If a wine is acidic, it means less SO2 needs to be added. Furthermore, in general agriculture, alkaline lime is spread to neutralize acidified soil. From this perspective, Ono's soil pH is 6.7, which is nearly neutral.
In addition, water flowing from the Oshibayama limestone quarry north of the vineyard supplies lime (calcium) to the fields.
These factors lead Mr. Numata to believe there is significant meaning in choosing this location.

Vineyards and Planting Composition

Regarding Chardonnay, a total of approximately 1,100–1,150 vines are planted: 300 vines (contracted growers), 500 vines (Kita-Ono), and 300–350 vines (Ono). The Kita-Ono Vineyard faces east and is slightly cooler, sitting at an elevation of roughly 880 m. The Ono Vineyard to the south, while sharing the same geology, has a higher iron (Fe) content, which is expected to create distinct differences in the wine's expression.

Historically, transcending the boundaries of the Matsumoto and Takato domains, a blend of Kita-Ono × Tatsuno could be called the realization of a '400-year-spanning integration.' This could be an exciting highlight not only for wine fans but also for history buffs.

For Mr. Numata's current Chardonnay, the grapes are chilled overnight (approx. 4°C) after harvest, then destemmed, crushed, and pressed the following day. Considering the young age of the vines and the amount of sunlight, skin contact is performed to impart flavor. As a point of caution during this process, phenolics are carefully managed, and temperatures are lowered to control the risk of oxidation. As for MLF, co-inoculation is not used.

Incidentally, he believes that skin contact should not be performed if the grapes are in poor condition to avoid off-flavors, which reflects his confidence in the grapes themselves this time.
"Pre-fermentation juice treatment determines 80% of a Chardonnay wine." In that sense, Chardonnay can be said to be a variety that naturally expresses terroir.

The comparative tasting with Chardonnays from around the world featured a luxurious lineup of items as listed below.
It was moderated by Instructor Motoba of L'école du Vin.
A summary of the descriptions and tasting notes for each wine is provided below:

・Domaine Takahata Hauts-Vignes Night Harvest Chardonnay 2023 / Takahata Winery (Yamagata, Japan)

A winery famous for Chardonnay. This special brand is made in small batches using estate-grown grapes cultivated on trellises (clay soil). 2023 was a hot year. Takahata is in a basin with temperatures comparable to the Rhône.
It has strong nuances of tropical fruit.

・Bread & Butter Chardonnay 2023 / Bread & Butter Winery (California, USA)

Located between Napa and Sonoma, with sandy soil. A wine that strongly embodies the image of California Chardonnay. A Chardonnay you would want to drink in Hawaii.
It clearly showcases American oak characteristics reminiscent of coconut milk and Coppertone. A bright wine. Serving temperature is key.

・M3 Chardonnay 2023 / Shaw + Smith (Adelaide Hills, Australia)

A winery founded by the first non-British Master of Wine. An internationally styled, cleanly crafted wine.
A gentle impression. Reductive in style, typical of recent Chardonnays. It suggests an early harvest date. Has a solid, lingering acidity.

・Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay 2023 / Kumeu River (Kumeu, North Island, NZ)

While many famous NZ wineries are on the South Island, Kumeu is on the North Island. It's near Auckland and not particularly cold. A region with a history of wine industry involvement by Croatian immigrants. A winery founded by New Zealand's first Master of Wine.
It is one of the wineries previously selected in James Suckling's TOP 100.
Nuances of peach and white flowers give an elegant impression. Compared to the other items, it has the longest-lasting acidity.

・Meursault 2022 / Joseph Drouhin (Bourgogne, France)

Influenced by limestone, though it is not overly prominent. Chardonnay from clay soil.
Shows nuances of ripe fruit, cream, and butter, but it is not too much. A well-balanced wine with smooth acidity.

・Kirinoka Chardonnay Hakuo 2024 / Kirinoka Vineyards & Winery (Japan, Nagano)

Cloudy appearance. Complex aromas of ripe peach and grated apple with a multilayered flavor profile. Rich in umami.Minerality.A hint of saltiness is also present. Unfiltered and unfined.
Because yeast that produces flashy aromas was not used, the nose is modest, but the palate possesses a rich, creamy texture.

Regarding the verbalization of 'minerality,' there was also discussion here that rather than referring to 'minerals themselves,' it is likely an evaluative expression for the palate, describing 'flavors and tactile sensations that evoke minerals (minerality).'

Through tasting each wine, the lecture covered not only theoretical knowledge but also intuitive ways to enjoy them.

Ono in Nagano Prefecture is the ideal land that Mr. Numata searched for over 20 years before finally arriving there.
Not only for Pinot Noir but also for Chardonnay, its potential based on soil, geology, and climate will surely continue to draw significant attention.

Furthermore, terroir also encompasses 'people.' Mr. Numata, who says, "Wine is design," considers the condition of the grapes and plans the winemaking accordingly (chaptalization, barrels, vinification methods, etc.) to match his vision for the finished wine.
What kind of Chardonnay is targeted by a man who describes himself as the 'ultimate drinker'?

"Chardonnay is a variety that naturally expresses terroir"—he noted. The wine created with all this in mind is a bottle well worth trying, especially for those familiar with Chardonnays from the world's renowned wine regions.

Furthermore, programs designed to let participants experience and feel all of this together are also available.
If you are interested, why not consider participating?

https://www.duvin.jp/course/2592

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