Right in the Heart of Hokkaido! What Is Its Potential? An Interview with Tetsuya Yamahira of Yukikawa Winery

A winery that opened in 2021 and is entering its fifth year this year.
We visited Yukigawa Winery in Higashikawa Town, Kamikawa District, Hokkaido.

Tetsuya Yamahira, the winery's representative, took on this challenge after transitioning from a different industry.
He shared a wide range of insights with us—his perspective on winemaking through the lens of his background, the wines he aims to craft, and the potential of this region.

After graduating from university, Mr. Yamahira worked at a foreign computer company until 2020. Having also studied at Carnegie Mellon University in the United States during his career, he boasts an impressive track record in the IT world.

Through extensive international experience for both business and leisure, visiting many countries, he was struck by the sight of people casually enjoying wine as part of their daily lives, inspiring a desire that "in Japan as well, I want people to enjoy wine at their everyday dining tables.I hope scenes like this become more commonplace, and I want to contribute to fostering a wine culture unique to Japan."

As he contemplated his lifestyle and began considering a move to Hokkaido in earnest, his desire to "work in the food industry" and "run a consumer-facing business" motivated him to establish a winery.

Leveraging his experience in launching new business ventures, Mr. Yamahira navigated the process of opening and operating a winery. Yet, grape growing and winemaking come with many uncertainties. Compared to computers that operate strictly according to instructions, nature rarely goes as predicted, and he feels the stark contrast between corporate B2B and consumer-facing B2C businesses.

One characteristic of Mr. Yamahira's style is that he crafts wine not only at his own winery in Hokkaido, but also in South Africa and New Zealand.
Regarding his motivation, he says, "I have time during the winter season, and I want to build up my experience," showing his relentless drive to improve.

Winemaking in South Africa differed from his own style—involving nearly 100% whole-cluster fermentation and no cultured yeasts at all—which was an educational experience in its own right. Meanwhile, in New Zealand, he has been producing Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc, allowing him to directly apply those learnings back at his own winery.

Wines crafted in South Africa and New Zealand are, of course, also sold through his company (Yukigawa Fermentation).

(Above) A photo in New Zealand

(Above) While this vineyard landscape may look unfamiliar in Japan, it is the traditional bush vine training system used in South Africa.

The Kamikawa district, which includes Higashikawa Town, is located right in the center of Hokkaido. It sits within the Kamikawa Basin—the largest in Hokkaido—and features an inland climate.
As a result, summers are hot and winters are cold. Regarding this climate, Mr. Yamahira says:
"To be honest, I think it might actually be quite suitable for growing wine grapes. In Hokkaido, wine growing is concentrated in places like Iwamizawa and Yoichi, but compared to those areas, summer temperatures here are higher. Since we get plenty of sunshine, we can expect the grapes to reach good maturity. Come the harvest season in September and October, the cold intensifies. Because nighttime temperatures drop lower than in other areas, I believe we can grow grapes that beautifully retain their acidity."he notes.

While climate change becomes an increasingly serious issue year after year,"I believe that for the next decade or so, we will be able to grow grapes under favorable conditions here in the Kamikawa district,"he says, expressing his high expectations for this land.

The brick building, which suits Mr. Yamahira's atmosphere well, is the winery.
Originally used as a warehouse for shipping agricultural produce, it is currently owned by the town. Having taken a liking to it, he reportedly managed to lease it through persistent negotiations.

Although they have their own estate vineyards, currently they craft wines mainly by purchasing grapes from vineyards managed by Higashikawa Town, table grape varieties such as Niagara and Campbell from Yoichi, and European vinifera varieties (Ch, Pinot Gris, SB, PN) from Ishikari City.

Snow River Pinot Gris Hachi 2024
The recently released Pinot Gris from Ishikari brings fruitiness to the forefront, resulting in a wine with a crisp sharpness.

Snow River Rosato 2023
A rosé made with Seibel 13053, a variety common in Hokkaido.
While this grape is often made into red wine, making it into a rosé tones down its earthiness and brings a charming feel to the front. It is finished neutrally so as not to interfere with meals as much as possible.

Snow River Niagara Secco 2024
A slightly hazy wine. It is reportedly popular among people who have recently started drinking wine. By macerating the grapes, the aroma was kept from becoming too overpowering. A bottle with a fine balance of bitterness and fruitiness. Limited release of 700 bottles.

Snow River Sauvignon Blanc North Canterbury 2024
A wine that fully showcases its character, as if to say, "This is NZ Sauvignon Blanc!" It was crafted at a winery in Waipara, South Island. The condition of the grapes was reportedly excellent. You can enjoy the green, herbaceous flavors characteristic of SB, such as freshly cut grass.

<Chardonnay 2024 (Unreleased)>
I was treated to a taste of the Chardonnay that is soon to be bottled.
It has lively acidity and a crisp feel. It is scheduled for release in mid-June.

Another barrel-aged Chardonnay will be aged a little longer and released around winter.
In other words, you can enjoy two different styles of Mr. Yamahira's Chardonnay this year.

By the way, recommended playlists paired with each wine are suggested!
Why not check them out as background music when enjoying the wine?
It will surely enrich your wine life even further.

https://www.snowriverwines.com/collections/store

Mr. Yamahira's winemaking and winery management bring a fresh perspective from a different industry.
Unbound by fixed ideas of "how things should be," his presence may bring a fresh breeze to the industry.
Conversely, for those considering a career change or lifestyle shift, he could serve as a valuable role model.

Winery tours including tastings have reportedly started as well. If you are interested, be sure to visit Higashikawa Town.
Either way, let's start by trying the wine!

https://craftwineshop.com/collections/snowriverwines?srsltid=AfmBOorNqUXJTJ5hk2Amt2WQU-CACAFHhQTrOnuZ-FzC4e-t_H7lCQUU