"SUNTORY FROM FARM" is Suntory's Japanese wine brand.
Based on the concept of "Water, Soil, and People," this remarkable brand produces Japanese wine with a "story."
This time, focusing on the theme of Japanese wine terroir as conceived by "SUNTORY FROM FARM," we interviewed Rika Kaniya of the Winery Wine Business Division at Suntory Spirits Wine Company.
In the second part, Toru Kanisawa, manager of the "UNITED ARROWS LTD. WINE CLUB," tastes the wines and reflects on terroir.
Tasting Five Wines
There are five wines from "SUNTORY FROM FARM" to be tasted.
<Terroir Series>
- "SUNTORY FROM FARM Tsugaru Sauvignon Blanc 2022"
- "SUNTORY FROM FARM Kaminoyama Merlot 2019"
- "SUNTORY FROM FARM Shiojiri Merlot 2018"
<Wine no Mirai>
- "SUNTORY FROM FARM Wine no Mirai Tateshina Koshu Cool Climate Grown 2021"
<Winery Series>
- "SUNTORY FROM FARM Tomi no Oka Koshu 2021"
Mr. Kanisawa tastes them while referencing information on the characteristics of the wines and their production areas.
"SUNTORY FROM FARM Tsugaru Sauvignon Blanc 2022"
Kaniya: "The Tsugaru area of Aomori Prefecture is a very cool-climate production region. With volcanic ash soil and excellent drainage, it can be said to be an ideal region for grape growing. Suntory began cultivating grapes in Tsugaru about 30 years ago, but grapes were actually already being produced in Tsugaru in the late 1800s. Afterward, apple cultivation became dominant due to the effects of phylloxera, but Suntory recognized the potential of this region and has a long history of working together with local growers to cultivate grapes. By the way, curiously enough, Tsugaru wines have a subtle aroma of 'apple.'"
As a result of cultivating various varieties in Tsugaru, they have reportedly discovered great potential today in Sauvignon Blanc for still wine, and Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for traditional method sparkling wine.
Kanisawa: "In 'SUNTORY FROM FARM Tsugaru Sauvignon Blanc 2022,' I certainly get an aroma of apple. The acidity remains firm, leaving a crisp impression. While there are herbaceous green aromas, it is not the intense style found in New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but feels very delicate and elegant. It's a charming Sauvignon Blanc that makes you want to pair it with seafood, such as sushi with white fish seasoned with salt and citrus, or boiled shrimp."
"SUNTORY FROM FARM Kaminoyama Merlot 2019" & "SUNTORY FROM FARM Shiojiri Merlot 2018"
Kaniya: "Please try comparing the Merlot from Kaminoyama in Yamagata Prefecture and Shiojiri in Nagano Prefecture. Kaminoyama is also characterized by well-draining soil and cool temperatures; fitting for Yamagata's reputation as a fruit kingdom, it yields a fruit-forward Merlot. On the other hand, Shiojiri is cultivated in an area at an elevation of 700 meters, which is a very well-draining, stony area thanks to the nearby Narai River. In Shiojiri, famous as a Merlot-producing region, concentrated grapes are carefully vinified to create a powerful yet smooth wine."
Kanisawa: "The Kaminoyama Merlot has a sweet, charming aroma. You can clearly perceive the fruitiness, and the astringency is not overly strong, leaving a clean impression. It has a delicacy that makes you want to pair it with red-fleshed fish, such as marinated tuna. On the other hand, the Shiojiri Merlot offers many aromatic elements, giving a very powerful impression. Although the tannins are firm, they are silky and smooth, making the overall taste very refined. While I chose tuna for Kaminoyama, for this one I'd want to pair it with game, gizzards, or liver."
Incidentally, the winemaking philosophy of bringing out the best in the grapes is practically the same for both the Kaminoyama Merlot and the Shiojiri Merlot, meaning that the majority of the difference in flavor comes down to the difference in the production regions—that is, the difference in terroir.
They are two bottles that truly prove "Japan has terroir."
"SUNTORY FROM FARM Wine no Mirai Tateshina Koshu Cool Climate Grown 2021"
Kaniya: "While Koshu is typically associated with Yamanashi Prefecture, 'SUNTORY FROM FARM Wine no Mirai Tateshina Koshu Cool Climate Grown 2021' is an ambitious bottle crafted from Koshu grown in the exceptionally cool town of Tateshina, Nagano Prefecture. Tateshina is so cold that it turns into a snowy landscape in winter, but because it allows both fruitiness and acidity to be preserved, it produces a refined wine. The wine presented here is the first vintage, and we are delighted that it won a Gold medal at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2023."
Kanisawa: "Just from its appearance, you get the impression of firm acidity. The fruitiness is solid, but because the acidity is abundant, it is very well balanced. It represents a new kind of Koshu that completely overturns the image of Koshu as having a pale, light flavor. This was truly a surprise."
"SUNTORY FROM FARM Tomi no Oka Koshu 2021"
Kaniya: "Koshu is said to have been cultivated at Tomi no Oka Winery ever since the early 1900s, around the time Tomi Farm was established. 'SUNTORY FROM FARM Tomi no Oka Koshu 2021' is an important wine built upon the history of Suntory's challenges with Koshu. Selected from various clones for promising sugar content and concentration, and made exclusively with Koshu that has received the kind of meticulous care only Japanese producers can provide—such as thinning clusters on the vines and harvesting only fully ripened ones in sequence. This is a very luxurious Koshu, produced by finally blending together grapes that underwent vinification suited to each batch. Incidentally, at the Decanter World Wine Awards 2023, it was the only wine submitted from Japan to win a Platinum medal."
Kanisawa: "It is a great wine that simply makes the word 'delicious' come out first. It completely transcends my previous image of Koshu. While it has nuances of sweet fruit reminiscent of pineapple, the acidity is firm, keeping it well balanced. With its fruitiness, concentration, and acidity, if there were a radar chart, it would show a perfectly balanced distribution; I felt it is an ideal Koshu."
Conclusion of Part 2
Mr. Kanisawa noted that, from the tasted wines, he was able to feel not only the differences arising from the environment of each production area, but also the passion of the people who crafted them.
With "SUNTORY FROM FARM," we were able to experience the new fascinations of Japanese wine, where individuality shifts with terroir.
What is terroir in Japanese wine?
Why not experience it for yourself through "SUNTORY FROM FARM"?
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