"Grande Polaire Yoichi Zweigeltrebe 2022" recently made headlines by becoming the only Japanese wine to win a Platinum medal at Decanter World Wine Awards 2025, one of the world's largest wine competitions.
Grande Polaire is Sapporo Breweries' premium Japanese wine brand built around the concept of "Japanese wine connecting hearts and minds."
A seminar was held in a dialogue format featuring Chief Winemaker Jun Tada alongside comedian Higuchi-kun of the duo Hige Danshaku, who is widely active in promoting the appeal of Japanese wine, centered around his online community "Higuchi-kun's Japanese Wine Gathering."
Higuchi-kun has been serving as Grande Polaire's brand ambassador since this year.
What is the appeal of Grande Polaire when viewed through the respective lenses of a producer and an ultimate enthusiast?
At the end of the article, we also present an exclusive interview with both Higuchi-kun and Mr. Tada!
Choose to Fit the Occasion! The Grande Polaire Portfolio
"People often assume that because it's inexpensive, it must be made from leftover grapes, but that isn't the case at all!" said Higuchi-kun, referring to the blend series, the most accessible tier in the lineup. Rather than using "leftover grapes," base wines are crafted from "grapes carefully selected for blending," which are then assembled while cautiously balancing aromas and flavors.
Although it requires considerable time and effort, it remains accessibly priced. With a focus on fruitiness and restrained acidity, it is highly recommended for beginners.
"We want people to experience 'the excellence of Japanese wine' through this series," says Mr. Tada.
Meanwhile, the Character Series—which includes "Grande Polaire Yoichi Zweigeltrebe 2022," acclaimed as the world's best Zweigeltrebe at Decanter as mentioned at the beginning—sits mainly in the 2,000 to 3,000 yen price range.
"With these, we want people to feel the 'character of the terroir,'" says Mr. Tada.
Higuchi-kun shared that as soon as he heard the news of the award, he rushed to his local supermarket to buy a bottle. The fact that wine of this caliber can be purchased at a neighborhood supermarket is also truly wonderful.
And at the highest price tier is the Single Vineyard range, offering a taste of the "vineyard's true character."
These were introduced thoroughly, accompanied by tastings.
Four Single Vineyards in Nagano and Hokkaido
Azumino Ikeda Vineyard
Nagano Prefecture has low rainfall and high altitude (generally 500–600m), providing substantial diurnal temperature variation that results in excellent color development in the grapes.
Consequently, it is a major producing region ranking second in both grape and wine production in Japan.
At Azumino Ikeda Vineyard, European grape varieties are primarily cultivated.
Mr. Tada researched aroma extraction during his studies in Bordeaux, and after returning to Japan, he created "Azumino Ikeda Sauvignon Blanc ＜Kaoru Voile＞" through trial and error, making it a wine close to his heart. Starting with this bottle, the vineyard yields white wines with distinct aromatic personalities and red wines with substantial weight and concentration.
"Indeed, the Sauvignon Blanc from here has a wonderful aroma and is genuinely delicious on the palate." (Higuchi-kun)
It is delightful when a wine lives up to the expectations set by its aroma.
Another defining feature is its well-drained, southwest-facing slope strewn with stones.
Hokkaido Yoichi Hirotsu Vineyard
Established in 1990. A vineyard cultivated over many years in partnership with the Hirotsu family, father and son.
Located at 43 degrees north latitude, the area is cool, experiences little rainy season, and is relatively mild within Hokkaido, resulting in a low risk of frost damage. Under these conditions, which sound tailor-made for wine grape cultivation, they focus primarily on Pinot Noir, Kerner, and Zweigeltrebe.
Today Yoichi is renowned as a premier region for Pinot Noir, but it was once considered too cold and unsuitable.
"With global warming changing Hokkaido's climate since around 1998, great Pinot Noir has come to thrive here recently. In blind tastings, they produce wines that rival Burgundy," says Higuchi-kun.
A distinctive feature is that even when fully ripe, the grapes retain solid acidity. It is often described as "Yoichi's trademark refreshing acidity."
Hokkaido Hokuto Vineyard
Established in 2018. While focusing mainly on European varieties, they are also experimenting with Gewürztraminer, Koshu, and others, which is exciting to look forward to.
A unique advantage of this terroir is that harvest can be pushed back until November, allowing grapes to gain greater ripeness.
Perhaps because of this, the Chardonnay tasted today showed a solid presence with tropical aromas and a rich body reminiscent of warm-climate Chardonnays.
Hakodate gained significant attention when the venerable Burgundy winery Domaine de Montille launched a project there, but Grande Polaire's initiatives in the region actually began around the exact same time.
Tasting to Experience the Terroirs
Six representative wines were presented for tasting during the seminar.
Participants explored the aromas and flavors of each through explanations from Mr. Tada and pairing suggestions from Higuchi-kun.
Azumino Ikeda Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs ＜Traditional Method 2020＞
The first sparkling wine from Azumino Ikeda.
Nuances of Japanese citrus and honey. There was discussion over whether the subtle sweetness stemmed from bottle aging or the grapes themselves, but this wine is actually non-dosé.
"I'd love to drink this as a first glass at a luxury ryokan," (Higuchi-kun)
Indeed, when traveling, one naturally wants to enjoy local food and drinks. Sharing an anecdote from a hot spring trip with his wife, he suggested culinary pairings rooted in the local region.
Hokuto Chardonnay 2024
Higuchi-kun's tasting note: "A gorgeous aroma reminiscent of lily of the valley and white peach. Minerality and a subtle salinity. If I had to compare it, it's like licking a stone—though I suppose people don't usually lick stones."
Specifically, he suggested it would pair wonderfully with delicate seafood such as squid sashimi, scallops, and herring roe.
Nagano Chardonnay
Showing maturity, well-integrated oak, and great balance.
"Tempura, shimesaba (cured mackerel), and vinegared rice seem like great pairings," said Higuchi-kun. "With this much richness, it can hold up well to Japanese dishes using oil," added Mr. Tada.
Higuchi-kun also noted how reasonably priced it is, considering it uses grapes from premier parcels.
Yoichi Pinot Noir 2021
Crafted using grapes grown by Mr. Hirotsu, sourced from a popular south-facing slope in the Noboricho district of Yoichi, Hokkaido, an area well-regarded for producing high-quality grapes.
A Pinot Noir quintessentially Yoichi, showing ume-shiso (pickled plum and perilla), blood orange, and redcurrant. Higuchi-kun described it as having "an acidity reminiscent of Koume-chan candy." Notes of forest floor, leaf mold, and ocean breeze were also present.
Sushi and red-fleshed fish were recommended for this wine. According to Higuchi-kun, "It also goes nicely with soy sauce-flavored nori rice crackers."
Azumino Ikeda Pinot Noir 2021
The deep appearance confirms the earlier statement that "Azumino Ikeda yields small-berried grapes."
With aromas of ripe strawberry, black cherry, and blueberry, the palate conveys the power derived from those small berries.
"With this level of structure, it pairs nicely with fried dishes like menchi-katsu or Japanese dishes combining red-fleshed fish and soy sauce," (Mr. Tada).
"How about tonkatsu?" (Higuchi-kun).
"That might be going a bit too far," (Mr. Tada).
With only one glass left, the banter between the two flowed effortlessly.
Meritage 2021
A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. While powerful and concentrated, it also possesses a freshness characteristic of Japan.
Higuchi-kun offered a thoughtful remark: "Since this looks capable of aging for 20 years, it could fulfill that dream—often difficult with Japanese wine—of 'buying a wine from your child's birth year and toasting with it when they turn 20.'"
Regarding food pairing, he noted it was "perfect for well-marbled Wagyu beef," making it a bottle truly fitting for celebratory occasions.
This is a proud creation of Grande Polaire, carefully crafted barrel by barrel, from which the finest lots are selected for assemblage. Although appropriately priced for its caliber, why not cellar a bottle to anticipate opening it on a special anniversary?
Conclusion
Following the detailed explanation of regional characteristics, Mr. Tada's statement left a strong impression: "Rather than projecting my own ego, I want to understand the individuality of the terroir and bring it out to the fullest."
Higuchi-kun shared an anecdote about missing out on "Yoichi Pinot Noir Noboricho Selection" years ago and how difficult it became to find afterward. He cautioned that while people tend to think, "It's Sapporo Breweries, so they must make plenty—I can just buy it next time," delicious wines should truly be secured right away.
Finally, producer Mr. Tada spoke about his aspirations, and ultimate enthusiast Higuchi-kun shared his vision for the future.
Through this seminar, we reflected on the harmony between terroir, culture, and local ingredients.
With Higuchi-kun's concluding words—"Wine is a beverage that connects people with people"—many readers will surely find deep resonance in the themes of this seminar.
Higuchi-kun of Hige Danshaku
Born in 1974 in Fukuoka City. Formed the comedy duo "Hige Danshaku" in 1999.
Certified as a Wine Expert by the Japan Sommelier Association in 2015,
and appointed "Sommelier d'Honneur (Honorary Sommelier)" in 2020.
As "Yoichi Wine Ambassador" for Hokkaido since 2022, he actively promotes the region through wine.
He continues to expand his activities, centering around the online community "Higuchi-kun's Japanese Wine Gathering."
Author of the book "Hige Danshaku Higuchi-kun Talks Japanese Wine Salon."
Jun Tada, Chief Winemaker, Grande Polaire
＜Career History＞
2008: Joined the company, Chiba Plant Production Department
2013: Okayama Winery Production Department; involved in the production of "Grande Polaire" as a brewer
2018: Enrolled in the DNO (Diplôme National d'œnologue) program at the University of Bordeaux, France; obtained DNO in 2020 following internships at classified châteaux
2020: Winemaker, Grande Polaire Katsunuma Winery
2024: Appointed Chief Winemaker