If you have one foot in the world of wine, you may have heard the term "terroir."
You increasingly hear the word "terroir" used when discussing Japanese wine as well, such as: "The terroir of Toriibira in Katsunuma Town, Yamanashi Prefecture is..."
Therefore, knowing something about "terroir" should come in handy when choosing wines or visiting a winery in the future.
Here, we have summarized what terroir is, points to be careful about when using it, and more.
Please take a look!
About Terroir
In wine, terroir is a term used to describe things such as the "grape growing environment." (It is said to originate from the French word "terra.")
By the way, keep in mind that "terroir" is not the exclusive domain of wine, as it is also used for products like tobacco, chocolate, and coffee.
Now, because terroir seems to have a definition yet really doesn't, there is no definitive answer like "This is terroir!"
Therefore, because different people understand and think about it differently, caution is required when using it.
We will discuss that later, so let's first explain the basic elements of terroir.
Basic Elements of Terroir
As mentioned above, terroir refers to the "grape growing environment."
However, since this is too vague, let's break it down a bit further.
Grape Growing Environment
- Soil
- Location / Topography
- Climate
- Grapes (variety, rootstock, training system, etc.)
- Action of microorganisms
It would be something along these lines.
In addition, in recent years there has also been a movement suggesting that "human intervention" should be included in terroir, not just the grape growing environment. (Of course, there are also opinions that human intervention is something different.)
In short, terroir may be described as the "soil composition, climatic conditions, topography such as slopes, and the varieties and training methods of the grapes grown" of the place where grapes are cultivated, as well as the "techniques and philosophy of the people who grow the grapes and vinify the wine."
Now, applying this framework, let's think about the terroir of a certain winery.
The Terroir of a Certain Winery
Let's take a look at the terroir of a certain winery located in Minami-Alps City, Yamanashi Prefecture.
- Where the raw grapes are grown
The grapes used by this winery are grown in vineyards categorized as being in the western part of the Kofu Basin.
This is an alluvial fan where the Midai River flows into the Kofu Basin from the west, and the vineyard is located on its right bank.
- Soil
Backing against the Minami-Alps mountains, it consists of sandy soil containing angular gravel, providing outstanding drainage.
- Climate
Furthermore, with climatic conditions of hot summers and cold winters, large diurnal temperature shifts, and low rainfall during the grape growing season, it is said that high-quality grapes can be cultivated here.
- Location / Topography
The estate vineyard was cleared on a steep slope with good ventilation.
- Grape Varieties
Drawn to the well-drained soil conditions and low rainfall, they mainly cultivate Muscat Bailey A. Other purchased grapes are sourced from growers practicing organic viticulture.
Thanks to favorable climatic conditions, they take on the challenge of farming almost entirely without agricultural chemicals.
- Winemaking
To bring out the individuality and terroir of the grapes, they use indigenous yeasts as much as possible with zero added dried yeast. They craft their wine with either zero or only minimal use of sulfites.
- Personality
A bright, optimistic individual. Because they also make natural wines, they have practiced veganism themselves for many years.
Although this is a rough overview, we have summarized this winery's terroir.
Looking at this, it feels like breaking down the question, "Please tell us about the characteristics of your winery."
Terroir from a Taster's Perspective
If you simply break down the term terroir, it results in the kind of interpretation mentioned above.
However, as mentioned, people perceive terroir differently, and there seem to be various meanings and ways of thinking beyond this.
One pattern is where terroir is used to express the "taste of the wine" rather than the growing environment or human intervention. (A wine taster's perspective)
It is used when sensing the "taste of the land" in a wine that expresses the individuality of that region, such as saying, "You can understand the terroir from this wine."
For example, consider a wine made from grapes grown in limestone soils in a cool region at high altitude.
If "it not only shows sharp acidity, but also has structure and mineral-like nuances," you might think that "the terroir is expressed."
Terroir in this context, while assuming the premise of the grape growing environment, focuses not on that itself, but rather on whether "terroir" can be felt in the wine itself... meaning it is used from the "wine's perspective."
It is a bit complicated, but using terroir in this way allows one to express differences in terroir at the vineyard, parcel, or village level, and can also serve as a criterion for judging whether the individuality of the land has been maximized. (It is also suited for marketing.)
Some wine tasters often use terroir in this manner, so it might be worthwhile to listen closely to tasting comments in the future.
Perspectives with Reservations About Terroir
While it is difficult to provide an exhaustive explanation of the ways of thinking and perceiving terroir here (since there is fundamentally no single right answer), you likely understand the basic concept.
However, as mentioned at the beginning, keep in mind that there are points of caution regarding the usage of "terroir."
First, there are people (including producers) who do not have a very favorable impression of the word terroir.
While acknowledging that differences in individuality arise from the grape growing environment, some criticize "terroir" as a convenient marketing buzzword created by France. (They cannot stand it being used carelessly, etc.)
Others find it absurd that a wine made without indigenous yeasts, packed with additives, and subject to excessive human intervention can be marketed using the word terroir simply because it displays characteristics of that region.
Conversely, some feel uncomfortable when a flawed wine resulting from mistaken human intervention due to an obsession with terroir is sold as "the result of expressing terroir."
In short, because the definition is vague, the opinion is: isn't it a term that is being used flippantly?
Furthermore, here is something to be especially careful about.
Has Terroir Not Yet Been Established?
Japanese wine producers, retail shops handling Japanese wine, and seminar instructors, among others across various sectors, are promoting "Japan's terroir."
Continuing to communicate that Japan has terroir just like world-famous wine regions is very meaningful.
However, among producers, there are also those for whom the word terroir does not really resonate.
They might feel that it is not yet known which grape varieties are suited to each area as a wine region, that what terroir encompasses is inherently vague and hard to understand, or that they are simply growing grapes suited to the growing environment in front of them without being particularly conscious of it...
For this reason, even if you ask a Japanese wine producer, "Please tell us about the terroir of this region," it is not uncommon for them to look puzzled or answer, "Because we don't know yet."
Of course, there are Japanese producers who are thoroughly meticulous about terroir as well.
While terroir itself is a term worth knowing, using it excessively might cause confusion for the other person.
A Word That Also Makes Wine More Interesting
In the end, what does terroir really mean...?
Somehow, this ended up on a somewhat "vague" note.
The fact that there is no fixed answer and that people understand it differently may lead to this, but looking at it the other way, it means that you can also define "the terroir that you envision."
Not to encourage an argument, but try having a debate with wine-loving friends or acquaintances on the topic of "What exactly is terroir?" (While drinking wine, of course).
You will probably be able to talk through until the morning.
Terroir is a familiar term, yet a profound one.
Why not take this opportunity to rethink it once again?
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