NIKI Hills Winery in Niki Town, Hokkaido opened in 2019 as a "winery that creates a space of deep emotion and healing where you can return to nature through all five senses."
The project started in 2014 and celebrates its 10th anniversary on July 7 this year.
With its distinctive climate, topography, and soil, this winery creates flavors that are unique to Niki. Experience and enjoy them, savor pairings with dishes made from local ingredients at the adjacent restaurant, satisfy both heart and appetite, and greet the morning in Niki in a luxurious room. A winery where such experiences come true.
Many people probably feel they would love to visit at least once.
Recently, the unveiling of new products and new vintages was held at DAC Holdings, the headquarters of NIKI Hills Winery.
Along with wine tastings, we would like to reintroduce what kind of winery it is, incorporating stories shared at the event by Takashi Atsuta, Honorary Advisor of the Japan Sommelier Association, and winemaker Mamiko Ota.
Takashi Atsuta, Honorary Advisor of the Japan Sommelier Association, Speaks! Wines of Hokkaido and Niki
Mr. Atsuta has served as wine supervisor since the opening of NIKI Hills Winery in his role as auditor.
The interviewer was Yoshinobu Kondo, a holder of the WSET Level 4 Diploma. (Furthermore, he recently passed the "International A.S.I. Sommelier Diploma 2024 Exam," a qualification exam by the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (A.S.I.) that certifies sommeliers to global standards, achieving the highest-rated Gold).
In a panel discussion between the two, they talked about Hokkaido's terroir and the wines of Niki.
＜Mr. Kondo＞ Hokkaido wine has recently been gaining popularity throughout Japan, but what kind of image do you have of Hokkaido wine, Mr. Atsuta?
＜Mr. Atsuta＞ The number of wineries in Hokkaido has increased by about 3 times over these past 10 years, and there are currently 64 wineries. Overall, it means that it is blessed with favorable climate and natural conditions.
For such reasons, it has been designated as "GI Hokkaido," and I think the characteristics of "Hokkaido" as a whole are important. On the other hand, Hokkaido has an extremely large area, and the climate and conditions in East Hokkaido, South Hokkaido, and Central Hokkaido are completely different. Naturally, I would like to see wines made that allow you to taste the characteristics of each area.
＜Mr. Kondo＞ Japanese wine continues to develop steadily. Currently, I think many producing regions are in the midst of searching for how to express their respective characteristics, but what are your thoughts on the characteristics of Niki wine?
＜Mr. Atsuta＞ In Saint-Emilion, where I used to make wine, many places are now replanting because the vines are already too old. On the other hand, Niki has only been around for about 10 years. In another 15 years or so from now, I believe wines that truly astonish drinkers will be made. Together with that process, I hope people will enjoy and appreciate them slowly over a long period.
＜Mr. Kondo＞ Is there anything noteworthy about the soil in Niki?
＜Mr. Atsuta＞ Just a few minutes behind the winery, there is a zeolite mountain. Zeolite is a porous natural mineral accumulated through the volcanic activity of Mount Yotei from millions of years ago. This rock radiates heat. It also has the characteristic of drying out quickly even after it rains. Because of that, the soil 3-5m above the zeolite is bone-dry. Therefore, the grapes stretch their roots diligently, making it ideal soil for wine grape cultivation.
＜Mr. Kondo＞ Indeed, while the vineyards in Niki become muddy when it rains, they drain well and dry quickly. Also, a French person who previously saw the zeolite commented, "That's a stone that eliminates poisons."
＜Mr. Atsuta＞ It is a stone that is also said to possess the power to absorb bad things. It is truly a gift from nature. It feels as if God is telling us to make wine here.
＜Mr. Kondo＞ Let me ask about grape varieties. Since Hokkaido is a cool region, Kerner and Zweigeltrebe are thriving. Recently, Chardonnay and Pinot have also become popular. What are your thoughts on the future outlook for grape varieties in Niki?
＜Mr. Atsuta＞ While I believe it will take another 10 years or more to find the definitive answer, the soil is blessed, so for now we must plant many varieties to find the suitable ones. We need to conduct thorough sensory tests every year and study carefully.
I would like to make wine while considering how to handle the grapes grown, having many people drink them, and receiving their opinions.
＜Mr. Kondo＞ Could you tell us about the future outlook for Japanese wine as a whole?
＜Mr. Atsuta＞ For example, cultivating wine culture in Japan, such as "how to enjoy wine in everyday life," is also important.
The appropriate amount of wine per 1 day recommended by the WHO is not very large. By pairing it with cheese and taking rest days from drinking, I believe a culture of everyday wine will slowly take root.
I believe true wine culture is not just about luxury, but also about how to enjoy everyday wine at home.
Winemaking at NIKI Hills by Winemaker Mamiko Ota
We were able to talk online with winemaker Mamiko Ota about winemaking.
— About the 2022 Wines
Compared to 2021, HATSUYUKI 2022 was made in a way that brings out more of the grapes' inherent potential.
We adopted a skin-contact method to draw out even more aroma.
Year after year, everyone at the winery unites as one to craft our wines. We hope people will also enjoy such growth and evolution.
— What are NIKI Hills' commitments to winemaking?
First of all, we place great value on crafting "that one special bottle for the customer."
It is a fundamental premise that it arrives in sound condition to bring joy upon delivery. Moreover, we want to consistently deliver what could be called clean winemaking, ensuring a baseline standard of quality. We devote ourselves to daily winemaking with the hope that our passion reaches our customers.
In addition, we hope to express the terroir characteristic of the left bank of the Yoichi River.
Featured Wines Selected by the Editorial Team!
Here are the featured wines of this season that the editorial team has focused on.
(Clicking the photo will take you to the product purchase page at 【CRAFT WINE SHOP】🍷)
【NEIRO Assemblage 2023】
Fans of NIKI Hills Winery may notice that the NEIRO label differs from previous ones.
This wine blends Kerner into the Bacchus originally used in NEIRO.
The aromatics of Bacchus and Kerner are remarkably fresh, and with a lower alcohol content of 10.5%, it offers a lively yet elegant presence.
(Comment by Mr. Kondo)
During the 2023 harvest, grape sugar levels tended to rise with difficulty, but there was a desire from the winemaker to express the terroir of Niki as purely as possible without chaptalization.
From the vinification stage to wine tasting, making each judgment carefully, the owner, winemaker, and sommeliers conducted tastings and discussions, resulting in the creation of NEIRO Assemblage.
NIKI Hills has 5 sommeliers and 2 Wine Experts. In addition, including the Wine Experts at DAC Group, the advertising company and parent company of NIKI Hills, there are 11 tasters in total, aiming to craft world-class wines.
【HATSUYUKI 2022】
When it comes to NIKI Hills Winery, HATSUYUKI is likely the first wine that comes to mind for many.
It is the flagship wine that has been crafted continuously since 2015.
(Comment by Mr. Kondo)
HATSUYUKI is a 100% Kerner wine. Kerner is a crossing of Trollinger and Riesling, and when tasted, its aromatic quality and fresh, high acidity evoke traits of its parent, Riesling.
Hokkaido has many wines made from German and Austrian grape varieties, and among them, Kerner successfully expresses its characteristics splendidly. HATSUYUKI is a wine where you can feel the pristine essence of Hokkaido, and it pairs wonderfully with Japanese cuisine.
In Closing
Through steady progress over these 10 years, NIKI Hills' wines have earned high acclaim, including multiple awards at domestic and international competitions.
Yet they state that they are "still in the middle of their dream." What kind of evolution will they achieve moving forward?
Now, celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, a grand commemorative party is scheduled at the winery in August.
Whether as a travel destination or at home, why not enjoy the wines of NIKI Hills Winery, which is currently drawing so much attention?
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