Throughout Tokyo, shops where you can drink Japanese wine are dotted all over.
Among them, loved by countless alcohol enthusiasts, is Kuramae's "Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba."
While known as a liquor shop where you can encounter carefully selected sake, "Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba" actually also has a strong dedication to Japanese wine.
This time, we interviewed the shop's Representative Director, Akitai Seki.
We asked him about "Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba" and his passion for Japanese wine.
*We will also provide detailed information on the Le Milieu tasting event to be held on Saturday, September 20!
About "Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba"
"Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba" is a liquor shop where you can enjoy kakuuchi, located about a 5-minute walk from Kuramae Station on the Toei Asakusa and Oedo lines.
With a storefront resembling an artisanal Japanese restaurant, a spacious kakuuchi area, and a wide variety of drinks lined up, it is like a secret base for adults.
While "Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba" looks modern and fresh, it is also a long-established liquor shop founded in Showa 19 (1944).
Mr. Seki: "When this shop was originally founded, it was a food company called 'Futaba Foods' that wholesaled canned goods and ran a cider factory. Later, after acquiring a liquor license, it became a liquor shop in Showa 29 (1954). However, as liquor licensing gradually deregulated, the model of 'just selling alcohol' became difficult."
They had to do something specialized.
He explains that through repeated direct conversations with breweries, wineries, and producers, they decided to transition to the kakuuchi style out of a desire to convey the appeal of alcoholic beverages directly to drinkers (consumers) and to serve as an intermediary connecting liquor shops and customers.
Mr. Seki: "Until 11 years ago, this was a liquor shop where only shelves of alcohol lined the interior. We removed them, built walls, created space for kakuuchi, and gradually expanded it. Initially, we focused mainly on sake, driven by a desire to convey through kakuuchi the drinks of small breweries whose voices rarely reached customers directly. Today, we offer customers a wide variety of drinks, including Japanese wine."
Furthermore, another charm of "Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba" is that, despite being a liquor shop's kakuuchi, it offers a rich variety of food items.
Among them, the "Fermented Karaage" marinated in koji is said to be a popular menu item.
Mr. Seki: "'Drinking and eating casually' is the appeal of kakuuchi. That's why we still mainly stock canned goods and dry snacks. Amidst that, the COVID-19 pandemic arrived. Back then, alcohol faced tough times, didn't it? We wondered how we should convey the goodness of alcohol. To begin with, alcoholic beverages are foods that can be expected to have health benefits, using fermentation and koji. So, we decided to create a menu centered on the keyword 'fermentation,' and that's how the Fermented Karaage was born."
Fermented Karaage is a dish made by procuring rice koji and shio-koji from sake breweries (now from miso producers) and marinating domestic chicken in them to make it tender, served with an extra sauce made with fermented soy sauce and barley koji
—a masterpiece where you can fully savor "fermentation." (There is also a wide variety available, including your choice of breast or thigh meat).
Rather than just telling people to casually drink whatever is in the shop, the work of "Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba" lies in how deeply they can cherish the passion of the makers and the customers who visit looking forward to their drinks.
We felt we understood the secret behind why "Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba" captures and never lets go of the hearts of alcohol lovers.
"Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba" and Japanese Wine
Although strongly associated with sake, "Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba" is also particular about its lineup of Japanese wine.
With isshobin wines (1.8L bottles) and rare, hard-to-find Japanese wine also in stock, this kakuuchi stands apart from shops that "just carry Japanese wine because it's popular."
Mr. Seki: "'Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba' is certified as a 'shop where you can drink Yamanashi-produced alcohol.' I personally visited Yamanashi's wineries and breweries directly many times, sourcing Yamanashi local sake and wine directly. However, there were times when we couldn't continue relationships due to issues like lot sizes. In the midst of that, after meeting a representative from a trading company handling Japanese wine who had a passionate devotion to Japanese wine, our selection of high-quality Japanese wine kept growing rapidly."
Mr. Seki says the appeal of Japanese wine lies in the fact that you can see the faces of the producers.
Mr. Seki: "This connects to why we initially focused on sake: precisely because sake is made domestically, you can see the faces of the producers. The same goes for Japanese wine; for example, if you visit a winery in Yamanashi Prefecture, you can meet the makers and talk with them. Overseas wines are wonderful too, but even if you go abroad, visiting that winery casually isn't easy. 'Connecting customers with drinks and the producers whose faces you can see.' I have a strong desire to run that kind of business."
Every Japanese wine available at "Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba" is of high quality.
However, Mr. Seki says he doesn't select them solely on the criterion of whether they tasted good to him.
Mr. Seki: "Unlike the sanzoshu (triple-yield sake) of the past, I don't think Japanese wine is made just to 'sell whatever works.' Among them, if a producer makes wine with a 'strong passion,' there's no way the wine won't be delicious. A person with true dedication wouldn't make bad wine. Rather than judging whether it tastes good or bad on the palate, we procure wines with the mindset of recognizing those crafted with deep passion."
How to Enjoy Japanese Wine
The appeal of "Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba" is, above all, that you can enjoy any Japanese wine that catches your eye right on the spot in kakuuchi style.
Mr. Seki: "I feel that Japanese wine is delicate, and many bottles express their distinct characteristics remarkably well. On the other hand, because the price range tends to be higher compared to some overseas wines, I imagine many people haven't given it a try yet. In such cases, what I definitely want you to try at 'Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba' is isshobin wine."
At "Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba," they offer a menu item called the "Senbero Set" (1,000 yen, tax excluded), which lets you enjoy an appetizer, 1 glass of beer, and 2 glasses of wine (red or white), sake, shochu, etc.—3 drinks in total.
Mr. Seki: "In the Senbero Set, we serve isshobin wine. First, try an isshobin wine as an entry point into Japanese wine, and if you want to explore more deeply from there, try another Japanese wine. We design it this way so that those who haven't encountered Japanese wine yet can step up and enjoy it."
*Incidentally, any wine sold in the shop can be enjoyed kakuuchi-style for an additional 1,000 yen.
Moving forward, Mr. Seki wants to continue delivering wine, crafted through the makers' hard work and sweat, to customers as a team uniting winery and liquor shop.
He says he believes that rather than just saying "it's delicious," conveying the story of that wine and the maker's passion is what truly leads to deliciousness.
Discover Japanese Wine and Savor the Flavors of Kuramae!
At "Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba," you can even enjoy craft beer made right in Kuramae.
Mr. Seki: "We are engaged in activities that transform food waste generated by local businesses and eateries in Kuramae—waste that would normally be discarded—into compost. We prepared a composting machine in Kuramae to turn that waste into compost. Using that compost, we grow herbs in various spots. The beer brewed using those herbs as secondary ingredients is 'Kuramae Ale.' We want people to discover Japanese wine and also know the flavors of Kuramae. To all Japanese wine fans, we look forward to welcoming you at 'Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba.'"
With a refreshing flavor where the aroma of herbs is distinctly felt and a smooth finish that goes down easily, "Kuramae Ale" is a top-recommended craft beer even for wine lovers.
Please come and enjoy Japanese wine and the taste of Kuramae through kakuuchi.
Le Milieu Tasting Event!
At "Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba," Japanese wine tastings are held regularly.
On Saturday, September 20, 2025, a tasting event will be held featuring "Le Milieu," a winery in Azumino, Nagano Prefecture that enjoys strong support from Japanese wine fans.
From Le Milieu, President Shiose, who is also the winemaker, will be visiting the shop, making it a valuable opportunity to hear directly from the producer.
The event will be held from 13:00 to 18:00.
The participation fee is 1,000 yen for 5 glasses of 30ml each—another delightful kakuuchi price.
For details, please check the Instagram account of "Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba."
https://www.instagram.com/kakuuchi_cafe_futaba/
Reference
Kakuuchi Cafe Futaba
Address: 4-37-4 Kuramae, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours: Mon, Thu 15:00–21:00, Fri 11:00–21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00–20:00
Closed: Tue, Wed
TEL: 03-3861-1138