An interview with Akari Tsumuraya, a second-year winemaker who crafted "SUNTORY FROM FARM Japan's Nouveau 2022," released on Thursday, November 3 (public holiday).
Toru Kanizawa, leader of "UNITED ARROWS LTD. WINE CLUB" (hereafter, the Wine Club), paid a surprise visit to Suntory Tomi no Oka Winery to ask about wine and the behind-the-scenes stories of her time in charge.
In the second half, we will cover the rosé wine and her thoughts looking back on making the nouveau.
Interviewee
Akari Tsumuraya from Suntory Tomi no Oka Winery
About the Rosé Wine
For "SUNTORY FROM FARM Japan's Nouveau 2022," two varieties are being released: Koshu and Muscat Bailey A.
What caught Kanizawa's attention most was the question, "Why make Muscat Bailey A into a rosé?"
We asked Tsumuraya the reason.
Kanizawa: "For this nouveau, you made Muscat Bailey A as a rosé. While rosé has been generating buzz among wine lovers in recent years, it still feels hard to say that it has truly caught on in practice. Why did you decide to make the nouveau a rosé this time?"
Tsumuraya: "To bring out the best qualities of early-harvested Muscat Bailey A. Although the Muscat Bailey A used for nouveau is harvested early, its hallmark is a great balance of sweetness and acidity. I designed it thinking that a rosé would be ideal to fully showcase this individuality."
Kanizawa: "At the 'UA Wine Club,' if we're promoting wine from the fashion industry perspective, we've continually pushed 'rosé wine.' With lifestyles becoming more casual now, if we want wine to fit into that, rosé really makes sense after all. Besides, rosé wine pairs with a wide range of dishes, and having just one bottle means you don't have to stress about pairings for everyday dining, which is another big part of its charm."
Tsumuraya: "During the trial phase for the nouveau Muscat Bailey A rosé, I cooked dishes myself to pair with it as I designed it, so I believe it turned out to be very easy to pair not only with foods highlighting the sweetness of pork or miso, but with a wide variety of meals as well."
Kanizawa: "The sweetness of pork and miso... and adding the pumpkin you mentioned earlier... doesn't that mean 'Hoto' noodle soup? (laughs). 'SUNTORY FROM FARM Japan's Nouveau Muscat Bailey A Rosé 2022' and Hoto... that sounds like an outstanding match."
Tsumuraya: "Indeed, it seems like it would pair wonderfully with Hoto! (laughs). Another reason is that I personally love the color of rosé. It makes your heart flutter, and I feel rosé wine is something that truly conveys the joy of 'the nouveau is here.'"
Kanizawa: "I love the color of rosé too! That's actually one of the reasons the 'UA Wine Club' recommends it."
Looking Back on Making the Nouveau
We asked Tsumuraya about what went well and what she would like to improve through the production of "SUNTORY FROM FARM Japan's Nouveau 2022."
Kanizawa: "Looking back on the nouveau winemaking process, what aspects do you feel went well for you?"
Tsumuraya: "I'm glad that I visited the cellar floor every single day to check temperatures and specific gravities. Because I tracked the fermentation state daily to ensure it was fermenting cleanly, the target aromas came through distinctly in the finished wine. I was so happy to share the joy with my seniors when they told me, 'It turned out really well this year.'"
Kanizawa: "Creating a clean, flawless wine without negative elements is truly wonderful. On the other hand, are there points you'd like to improve?"
Tsumuraya: "This time, I was once again acutely reminded of how difficult fermentation temperature control is. Even when setting it to what I considered the ideal temperature, it often didn't go as planned. My seniors are exceptionally good at that and can adjust it precisely to their target temperatures. I felt that I still have a long way to go to acquire that level of intuition."
Young Generations Taking on Challenges, and Future Dreams
It might be quite rare for someone of the younger generation, like Tsumuraya, to be selected for such an important role.
We asked Tsumuraya about that, as well as what she wants to try in the future.
Kanizawa: "Having an environment where young people can take on challenges, and having something you worked on go out into the world—such examples might inspire the younger generation."
Tsumuraya: "When the nouveau project came up with a 'Want to try it?' approach, I was truly surprised. To be honest, being entrusted with an important job made me very happy. However, I tend to feel pressure easily and worry a lot. Amid that, my seniors told me, 'Don't worry, it's fine. We're a team,' which genuinely allows our younger generation to take on challenges freely."
Kanizawa: "I can only envy that company culture (laughs). By the way, what do you think is the 'strength' unique to the younger generation?"
Tsumuraya: "Perhaps it's the mindset of wanting to try everything! Veterans have their past experience and carry out their work by drawing on accumulated skill and expertise. But I have little experience, and in a sense, my 'core' hasn't been set in stone yet. Because of that, being eager to try all sorts of things might be a strength of the younger generation. Also, greeting people with a loud voice is another strength of mine (laughs)."
Kanizawa: "That's important, definitely (laughs). Are there any wines you'd like to make in the future, Tsumuraya-san?"
Tsumuraya: "I'm interested in Sauvignon Blanc. We have a wine from our company called 'Japan Premium Tsugaru Sauvignon Blanc 2019,' and when I tasted it, I remember being deeply moved, thinking, 'Can white wine really taste this delicious?' It was the moment I realized Japanese wine is delicious. I want to make a Sauvignon Blanc wine that clearly expresses aromas of white peach, grapefruit, passion fruit, and the like."
In Closing
Finally, we received comments from Tsumuraya regarding Suntory Tomi no Oka Winery, which was renewed in September, as well as a message to our readers.
Tsumuraya: "At the renewed Suntory Tomi no Oka Winery, there are outdoor benches where you can leisurely enjoy wine while gazing at Mt. Fuji. You can enjoy a space where nature and wine harmonize, so please do come visit to refresh yourselves. Also, regarding the nouveau wines, we were able to harvest grapes with lovely aromas and great balance between acidity and sweetness for both Koshu and Muscat Bailey A this year. I would be delighted if everyone enjoys drinking them delightfully and deliciously paired with dishes made with seasonal autumn and winter ingredients."
Tsumuraya also shared that one day, she hopes to grow grapes in the estate vineyards at Suntory Tomi no Oka Winery and make wine from them.
While the artisanal image is one of the charms of winemaking, wines involving young women are equally appealing.
Wines made by women like Tsumuraya may be easy to pick up not only for wine enthusiasts, but also for people of her own generation.
Incidentally, Tsumuraya's passion for "nouveau" is also expressed on the back of the bottle.
"SUNTORY FROM FARM Japan's Nouveau 2022," an enchanting Japanese wine she crafted.
Why not take this opportunity to pick up a bottle?
References
About Suntory's Japanese wine
http://suntory.jp/NIHON/